Saturday, February 5, 2011

New Zealand: A kiwi adventure!

We flew to the south island of New Zealand on Christmas Day and began an incredible 22 day journey traveling almost 3,000km!  New Zealand reminds me a lot of California.  There are so many different regions of California, the Pacific Coast near Big Sur, Napa Valley, suburbs of Los Angeles and Santa Ynez.  Throughout our travels here, we would all comment "this area reminds me of_______ in California."  Often, especially in the wine regions, it would remind us of what the wine areas in California were like 20 years ago.

The people who live there ("kiwis") are incredibly laid back, friendly folks.  We NEVER ran across one who was not willing to extend a friendly hand or to guide us to the best experience they could offer.  It was consistent across the entire country.

We began our trip in Queenstown.  I thought Queenstown was going to be a large city - it definitely was not.  It reminded me a bit of Tahoe City.  It is very outdoors oriented - both winter and summer sports.  It is a big ski location as well as a big trekking, biking, fishing location.  It is nested in a valley and sits on a gorgeous glacial green lake.  This is where bungy jumping originated...and I could have easily spent another week just here.

Christmas Day

Lake Wakataipu from our room

Mountains surrounding the lake

Even in the rain, the lake was simply beautiful

This is a stoat.  This is a classic case of government meddling and creating unintended consequences.  Rabbits were brought to the islands from Australia to help control the population of another animal.  Rabbits proliferated to the point where they were ruining crops.  The government in all of its wisdom imported these eating machines.  They did help control the rabbit population, but also took out the kiwi population.

Luging down the mountain
We rented a 12 person Hiace van to get us around the country.  Our first big drive was from Queenstown to Dunedin.  Dunedin is in the southeast part of the island and was first settled by Scots.  We read about this and had the idea that it would be a quaint little Scottish village.  We really were quite wrong.  It is the island's third largest city and is really just a big city with a huge shipping port.  Luckily for us, we had earlier decided to stay at Lanarch Castle on the Otago Peninsula.  This is across the bay from the city and at the tip of the peninsula is the only inhabited nesting sight for the albatross.  It worked out great for us because we ended up spending our entire time on the peninsula and were able to see so much!
The castle...well, lets just say that if you have seen a castle in Europe, you would be disappointed.  It was a private residence built to resemble a castle - but nonetheless, it was the first castle the girls have ever seen!  When we made the reservations, the only room we could get was in "the stables."  As you might imagine, it was camping, but with a solid roof over our head and a bed with a mattress.  It was the source of many laughs, but we all agreed it was well worth it because the location was absolutely beautiful and isolated.  Mike even went so far to say that it was his favorite place on earth...he claimed it surpassed his long time favorite place in Hawaii.  Now that is saying something!

The "castle"

The inside of the "stables" and where guests have breakfast

The courtyard and main rooms

The entrance to the "stables"...note our wheels to the right

View from Otago Pensinsula

At the albatross colony there was also a seal colony

A soaring albatross - I have never seen one before this

A Scottish festival on the grounds of the castle

From Dunedin we ventured north to Christchurch and to meet Suzanne.  Christchurch has been hit hard by 2 earthquakes - the most recent occurred on December 26th.  The city is a functioning mess.  I don't have many wonderful things to say about Christchurch except for 2 things.  They have an AMAZING Antarctic Center.  It is actually where many scientific  journeys to Antarctica depart.  They recreate what it feels like to be standing in the middle of Antarctica...you get suited up in a parka and boots and stand in a room where they generate extreme wind and cold.  Yes, we paid for this:)

The other thing about Christchurch is it is where some of the best tours depart...for Lord of the Rings (now to be referred to as LOTR).  Yes - it was indeed a LOTR geek fest!  We sat on a bus for 3 hours each way to go and see the hill where they created "Edoras".  We took plenty of geek photos and have had many many laughs about it ever since....

The freeze fest we paid to do

We did see a number of penguins on the trip

Earthquake aftermath

Rubble everywhere

Edoras was built on the hill behind

The girls dueling 

Standing where Edoras once stood

Legolas??

Photo from the movie set

It really is hard to imagine how they build this right where we stood!
From Christchurch we headed to our first wine region - Blenheim in the Marlborough region.  This reminded me of Napa 20 years ago.  Rolling hills of vineyards and stunning landscape.  The area is known for Sauvignon Blanc - and it did not disappoint!  I would safely claim that we are New Zealand converts for this varietal.

We chose to stay at a B&B situated in the midst of a working vineyard.  It was amazing.  I could see myself living here forever.  The scenery is beautiful, the weather perfect and wine and food by up-and-coming chefs are noted throughout the valley.

We stayed in the "Woolshed" at St. Leonard's

The view from the "woolshed"

Lunch in the vineyard

Grapes and more grapes!

The Marlborough valley
After the decadence in Blenheim, and sending Mike back to Singapore, we headed north to Kaiteriteri which is right near the Abel Tasman national park.  The one and only purpose of coming here is for Suzanne and I to kayak on the Tasman Sea.  We met up with Keri's sister who I met when she was visiting Singapore in fall.  The three of us had a perfect day on the sea!
Cyndi and I getting ready to set off

Suzanne and I kayaking around Tonga Island

Tonga Island - a seal colony.  There were 8 week old pups all over the place!  


Now one thing I have failed to mention are the sheep.  There are sheep ALL OVER the country!  And, as we have come to discover, the numbers are down to 30 million from 80 million because the sheep owners are only getting $3/kilo...and each sheep produces about 2 kilos twice per year.  However...30 million sheep are still a whole lot of sheep.  They are much more prevalent on the south island than the north island, but still pretty much everywhere.

Sheep everywhere on the hills

An "off season" lamb - 5 days old

Bahhhh!



Sheering...hard work!
Next our journey took us on a ferry to Wellington on the north island.  After a quick stop at the Te Papa museum we drove to Martinborough - our second wine region.  Martinborough was not at all like Marlborough.  There were not rolling hills of vineyards.  There were a lot of dry foothills and small vineyards nestled in here and there.  This area reminded us of Paso Robles 20 years ago.  Mostly very small boutique wineries and a very very quaint little town.

Before our wine tasting day began, we stopped at a farm - sometimes it really is the simple things that bring happiness!



"Tasting Rooms" are called "Cellar Doors" in New Zealand...and this is a very typical cellar door in Martinborough
Next we set off for Napier, known as "the prettiest little city" in New Zealand.  We had a beautiful hotel room overlooking the ocean, but unfortunately had rain just about the entire time we were there.  This was our third wine destination as we sought the perfect pinot noir.  We really tried, but alas could not find a pinot that we truly enjoyed.

Elephant Hill winery

Craggy Range winery

Across the street from our hotel in Napier
Napier behind us, we went on to Rotorua and the geothermal region of the north island.  This area is right in the middle of the island and is riddled with hot springs, geysers and extinct volcanos.  We rented a house on Rotorua Lake and settled in for home cooked dinners, card games and kayaking on the lake.  We also went out to see the geothermal grounds and to soak in some hot springs.  Sulfer?  Oh yeah.

Mt Tarawera

Sunset on the lake

Lady Knox geyser about to go off

Geyser as scheduled!




Sulfer...Wai-O-Tapu geothermal grounds


Bathing beauty in the thermal pools

Steam from the hot water flowing into the pools

This is also the heart of the Maori culture

A Maori "hangi" dinner - very similar to a Hawaiian luau

On the way to Auckland, we stopped to see "Hobbiton"...yes, our last stop on the LOTR geek fest.  HOWEVER....it was absolutely amazing!  Our timing could NOT have been any more perfect.  They are getting ready to film "The Hobbit" in the next 4-6 weeks so the entire set has been rebuilt - and for the first time, they are allowing tours before filming begins.  It was like we were walking in the midst of the scenes from the film.  Unfortunately, I can't post any pictures or I will be sued....

But, for Auckland...I loved Auckland!  A beautiful seaside town and somewhat reminiscent of Seattle on a clear day.  Very much a sea loving city...but I think better weather overall than Seattle:)





AND...I got to spend my last day watching the semi-finals for the Heineken Open!  The first time I have seen a professional tennis tournament and I loved every minute of it!!

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